As long as I remember I have watched the Tour de France every July on tv. Later in my life I cycled many of the big cols in the Alps as an amateur road cyclists and sometimes with luggage. Never before I crossed the famous passes in the Pyrenees by bicycle, so on our trip through Spain and France we decide to explore this mountain range. Our first encounter is the unknown Col Pierre St. Martin, a 1766m high pass on the frontier between Spain and France. With our 50kg of luggage each it is hard work, and we experience what we heard before: the climbs in the Pyrenees are not as high as in the Alps, but because you start at lower elevation and the climbs are irregular, they are at least as hard.
Striking is the difference of climate between the dry plateau of Spain with scattered pine forest and the lush broadleaf forest of France with lots of rivers and water falls. In France a huge descent takes us from the snow in the skiing station on the top to 200m above sea level where it is 30°C and full-on summer. Often we have to stop to cool down our sizzling rims and smoking brake pads.
The next climb is the only 1035m high Marie-Blanque, but coming from 200m and with 11% gradient the last 4km it is still killing us (again). On the top we have a well-deserved rest under huge beech trees, who's leaves we eat for salad.
In the Tour de France the west side of Col d'Aubisque is classifies as HC, the highest catagory. What this means we learn in the 3.5 hours it takes to ride the 18 steep kilometers. The best part is the many words of encouragement we get for towing our cycling circus over this giant mountains. Even the passing Vacansoleil team with Johnny Hoogerland has time for a few words and a wave. On the top we see absolutely nothing in the thick fog and disappointed we descent the other side.
After this effort we are caught in some very nasty weather and we have to sit out 84 hours of continuous rain in our 3-person tent. We only come out to pee or cook a quick pasta meal, but eventually we are so miserable that I pee in a marmalade jar and we soak the pasta till it gets soft without cooking it (not in the same jar). The dogs suffer most and are shivering all over. Ben is the only one who doesn't care.
For the first time in years we visit a camping. We are so tired of the climbing and the cold that we can't rough it anymore. Just having a washing machine and a hot shower feels like an enormous luxury and we relax. After a day of rest we start exploring the area, yes by bicycle of course. We climb the mountain top finish of Hautacam and I do a big 100km+ lap over col the Spandelles, col de Soulor and col d'Aubisque again, now with good weather and fantastic views. This probably doesn't sound like much resting, but without luggage it is suddenly very easy. I didn't realize that I was in such a good shape. With my broken sandals, butten-up shirt and zip-off pants on a heavy mountain bike I pass many lycra-clad cyclists on carbon frames.
We decide to leave the rest of the Pyrenees for the next trip and take the easy way to Toulouse where we visit an old friend, make new ones and have another wonderful rest.
Striking is the difference of climate between the dry plateau of Spain with scattered pine forest and the lush broadleaf forest of France with lots of rivers and water falls. In France a huge descent takes us from the snow in the skiing station on the top to 200m above sea level where it is 30°C and full-on summer. Often we have to stop to cool down our sizzling rims and smoking brake pads.
The next climb is the only 1035m high Marie-Blanque, but coming from 200m and with 11% gradient the last 4km it is still killing us (again). On the top we have a well-deserved rest under huge beech trees, who's leaves we eat for salad.
In the Tour de France the west side of Col d'Aubisque is classifies as HC, the highest catagory. What this means we learn in the 3.5 hours it takes to ride the 18 steep kilometers. The best part is the many words of encouragement we get for towing our cycling circus over this giant mountains. Even the passing Vacansoleil team with Johnny Hoogerland has time for a few words and a wave. On the top we see absolutely nothing in the thick fog and disappointed we descent the other side.
After this effort we are caught in some very nasty weather and we have to sit out 84 hours of continuous rain in our 3-person tent. We only come out to pee or cook a quick pasta meal, but eventually we are so miserable that I pee in a marmalade jar and we soak the pasta till it gets soft without cooking it (not in the same jar). The dogs suffer most and are shivering all over. Ben is the only one who doesn't care.
For the first time in years we visit a camping. We are so tired of the climbing and the cold that we can't rough it anymore. Just having a washing machine and a hot shower feels like an enormous luxury and we relax. After a day of rest we start exploring the area, yes by bicycle of course. We climb the mountain top finish of Hautacam and I do a big 100km+ lap over col the Spandelles, col de Soulor and col d'Aubisque again, now with good weather and fantastic views. This probably doesn't sound like much resting, but without luggage it is suddenly very easy. I didn't realize that I was in such a good shape. With my broken sandals, butten-up shirt and zip-off pants on a heavy mountain bike I pass many lycra-clad cyclists on carbon frames.
We decide to leave the rest of the Pyrenees for the next trip and take the easy way to Toulouse where we visit an old friend, make new ones and have another wonderful rest.
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